Chennai's Best kept Secret? Hint, it's served in a Clay Pot?

Amidst the sweltering Chennai heat, Mr. Pothilingam, a local street vendor, stands as a familiar figure. His years of experience have transformed the traditional “koozh” served

in a clay cup into a genuine moment of refreshing respite.

Against the backdrop of Chromepet's bustling streets and the relentless Chennai heat, a 70-

year-young vendor sells a simple yet profound recipe. "Koozh", a traditional Tamil food known for its cooling properties, stands ready to be enjoyed along with a vibrant selection of sun dried chillies and pickles. The blend of these Tamil specialities creates a culinary tradition that provides a welcome counterpoint to the harshness of the summer heat.

Say “vanakkam” to Mr. Pothilingam, a simple yet energetic man, weaving together a beautiful tapestry of traditional Tamil cuisine.

Mr. Pothilingam is a simple Tamil gentleman. You'd easily spot him in his usual attire: a plain white, short-sleeved shirt paired with a blue dhoti, standing near his bright blue “koozh thalluvandi” (pushcart). His bald head, framed by wisps of white hair, a tidy beard, and metal-rimmed spectacles, ensures he stands out in any crowd. Even at the age of 70, Mr. Pothilingam moved with immense speed. His movements were surprisingly lively. His hands,

weathered by years of stirring the “koozh” under the Chennai sun, works with a practiced, almost rhythmic efficiency as he ladles the thick porridge into a waiting stainless steel "sombu", also known as a Lota, which is a traditional Indian vessel, a familiar item in homes across India.

Despite his simple appearance, Mr. Pothilingam's hands are remarkably swift as he expertly

parcels his “renowned koozh" into small aluminium foil packets. He also uses small squares of butter paper and newspaper to skillfully wrap an assortment of his home-cooked “side-dishes” for customers who prefer a takeaway. He doesn't just serve “koozh”; he also offers a warm smile and a quick, often humorous, exchange with his surprisingly strong voice, helping the customers gain a sense of satisfaction. The heat might be unforgiving in the

streets of Chromepet, but his energetic spirit and his flavoursome “koozh” seem to thrive in the community, helping customers gain a refreshing escape.

Mr. Pothilingam's popularity in the streets of Chromepet is matched only by the demand of his "koozh". His "thalluvandi" on the intersection of Vaishnava College Rd and Vishnov College Rd has become a well-known spot since he started his business in 2017.

Every day, starting at 7 a.m., his entire stock of the traditional "koozh" sells out by noon. His

work hours might be short but his dedication to his craft begins the night before, as he soaks the ingredients for "koozh" such as "kambu" (Pearl Millet) and "kelvaragu" (Finger Millet) which are necessary for the next day's preparation. Early in the morning, Mr. Pothilingam starts his preparation of the famous "koozh"; he uses traditional Indian culinary instruments to grind the soaked millets. This ensures that the "koozh" lasts for an entire day.

When asked about expertise, Mr. Pothilingam explains with a sense of heritage and pride,

"Naanga porundhu valandhadhu koozhladhaan" (We were born and brought up in a family of koozh vendors), highlighting his deep-rooted connection with the culinary enigma of Tamil Nadu.

Mr. Pothilingam also sources the finest ingredients for his celebrated "koozh" from Annai Maligai Kadai in Medavakkam, which is nearly 10 kilometres away. Yet he travels the distance of 10 kilometres, at the age of 70, to ensure the quality of his ingredients that keep his customers coming back.

Beyond its refreshing nature, “koozh” is also recognised for its potential health benefits, particularly for managing diabetes. When asked about initial difficulties, Mr. Pothilingam simply stated, "Kashtamla onnum kadayadhu" (No difficulty). He also mentioned that having a strong, supportive family helped him carve out a smooth path for his business, which helped him establish a steady presence in the streets of Chromepet while also building a strong customer support through his delicious "koozh".

Mr. Pothilingam also proudly emphasised,

"Mazha kaalam, pani kaalam ellathulum namma kadaila saapiduvaanga. Vera engayum kada irukaadhu" (Monsoon, Winter, during every season, our shop will be here, people will eat in our shop. No other shop will be open.)

He also mentioned that the cooler months might see slightly slower sales, however the intense Chennai summers bring a surge in demand for his cooling offering, creating a balanced and reliable business throughout the year. This unwavering dedication to serving his customers, regardless of the weather, has solidified his reputation as a dependable part of the local landscape.

Koozh's uniqueness lies in its simple yet deeply rooted tradition, offering a cooling and nutritious respite perfectly suited to Chennai's climate. Its slightly tangy flavour, often enhanced by the variety of pickles, provides a distinct and satisfying taste experience unlike other street foods. For vendors like Mr. Pothilingam, a vital pleasure comes from the daily interactions with the community while serving them with the refreshing "koozh", the familiar faces of regular customers (such as my father) creating a sense of connection and belonging right her on the intersection between Vaishnava College Rd and Vishnov College Rd.

Mr. Pothilingam, is a one of a kind, 70-year-young street vendor who serves not just delicious "koozh" but also shares a sense of belonging. Come visit Mr.Pothilingam at his regular spot

at the intersection to share a traditional "koozh" and a humorous conversation.

Written by Hariharan N.

Hariharan wrote this article as a participant of the Media-Makers Fellowship's May'25 cohort.

This article was adjudged the 'Best Profile Article' created in Week 1 of the program.